You would think that we, on Salt Spring Island, live on Canada’s west coast. But the true we(s)t coast along the open ocean, is one more ferry ride and about 3 hours driving away, across another mountain range.

On this particular trip, we started with a stop in the little town of Chemainus. Fishing and logging ecnomies often caused unemployment in this area but residents are versatile and created a tourist attraction of beautiful murals on most buildings that depict the town’s history. If you follow the footsteps on the sidewalks you will see all the gorgeous paintings.

Cutting across the mountainous heart of Vancouver Island, Highway 4 winds through Port Alberni to the Pacific coast. On this particular trip, we spent one night in Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island’s east coast. We roamed the wide sandy beach, picking up a sand dollar here and a polished rock there.

The next morning we made the mandatory stop in Coombs. This tiny town has only a few services but made a huge tourist attraction out of a former farm stand. Some 30 years ago it was a farm stand with local pumpkins and apples in the fall. Now it is a huge supermarket/deli with lots of shopping options. Stores have sprouted up around it, selling ice cream and tye-dyed t-shirts. But the reason for all this is likely the goats on the roof. Yes, you read that right. The old farm stand and now the beautiful supermarket, sports a grass sod roof on which various goats roam and graze at will. This is apparently enough of an attraction that hordes of tourists stop and take pictures. It’s a fun and interesting stop. And after gazing at grazing goats, you can pick up a giant lawn ornament next door. My favourite store in this little hectic area is the Dutch Import Store which sells licorice, chocolate sprinkles and everything else Dutch, from frozen croquettes to bicycle bells.

The next stop is even more popular but also much more natural. Cathedral Grove, also named McMillan Provincial Park, is an awe inspiring place. Huge towering trees block out the sun, filter the rain and support intricate eco systems. Some of the trees here are 800 years old and 75 meters tall, making you feel like the tiny dwarf humans are in nature. Fallen trees support new ones. I doubt that there is much wild life left since every car and motorhome stops here, but it is gorgeous and definitely worth the loop walk through the grove to see the imposing forest. I just hope that BC Parks will spend the money and effort to provide a safer way to park. The one tiny parking area on one side of the road is not nearly enough and cars line up along the shoulders, with people crossing the road at will. An accident waiting to happen…

Port Alberni is a large town with many services and lots of camping, hiking and fishing nearby. Our favourite restaurant here is Little Bavaria which serves beautiful schnitzels and apple strudel.

We continue on west, past the picturesque Sprout Lake to the junction where you turn south to reach Ucluelet or north to reach Tofino.

Tofino used to be my favourite of the two isolated towns - with a cozy coffeeshop and a relaxed hippy atmosphere. Now Ucluelet feels more like a nice small town while Tofino is overrun with visitors and sky high prices. We couldn’t find affordable accommodations even when booking several months ahead. So this time we stay in an AirBnB in Ucluelet.

It used to be a bit of a run down fishermen’s village. Through the inevitable evolution along BC’s gorgeous coastline, Ucluelet has morfed into a friendly town of a few permanent residents and a surging summer population. We found a lovely cabin, complete with fireplace and jetted tub, in the woods and near the coast. Both towns have a nice Coop Supermarket with fresh produce and lots of choices. Since we have a kitchen we make our own meals but do have to find a coffeeshop to get wifi.

Unfortunately we had two days of rain, out of our three days on the coast. But a walk in the rain forest does feel more authentic when the trees are dripping…

Pacific Rim National Park stretches between the two towns and beyond (including the Broken Islands group). One of Canada’s most splendid coast lines is protected in this national park. Several long beaches offer a great place for a brisk walk, watching foamy waves and mist, scenic rocks and outcrops dotting the shore.

Equally impressive are the short rain coast walks. Here a sturdy wooden walk way allows visitors a glimpse of a unique ecosystem. Ancient logs serve as nursing logs for new growth. Giant skunk cabbage leaves and tiny unfurling ferns live side by side, thriving on the more than 3 meters of rain that falls here annually. Immense cedars and spruce form a green canopy that filters the sunlight, if there is any.

Another must-stop is the Kw’istis Visitor Centre with an interpretive display of both natural and cultural, First Nations, histories. We even watched spouting whales from the upstairs room. Be sure to ask the front desk staff for one of the movies listed. This is a great way to learn more about this beautiful area - one of Canada’s most scenic natural places.

Resources:

Chemainus murals: https://muraltown.com/

Qualicum Beach, Vancouver Island: https://www.visitparksvillequalicumbeach.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwY-LBhD6ARIsACvT72M3Pziw1bomyUORBusW8-kxpW_epa6miDhws2gRhlitig967yUcDdkaAtIBEALw_wcB

Cathedral Grove: https://bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/macmillan/

Pacific Rim National Park: https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/pacificrim