Our home for the next few nights is a row of large tents, Kati Kati Camp. Our tent is like a cabin, with a wooden floor, camp beds, and a tiny bathroom. On the ‘porch’ outside is a canvas wash basin. One of the servers, who showed us our tent, says “If you want to come for dinner, just wave your flashlight and we will come get you.” I am surprised. It is a a mere 30 meters or so to the dining tent.

“We can find it by ourselves,” I tell him.

“No, ma’am,” is the answer, “there are lions around. Call us!” I wake at 4 AM to the grumbles of a lion and the call of hyena. At 5:15 we get up and head out to watch the savannah come to live with the first rays of sun. I asked, in camp, if they’ve had any animals nearby. “Yeah, last week a cheetah killed a wildebeest by tent #5,” was the response.