Sometimes we plan trips to faraway places, only to realize that we live in a most beautiful place ourselves. Often when Kees and I return home after a trip, we say “We do live in one of the most gorgeous places anywhere!”. And that is why people from faraway, and not so far away, flock to Salt Spring Island as a tourist destination. So, let me tell you about my home.
Located in the Salish Sea between mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island, Salt Spring Island is the largest of several Gulf Islands, separated by a border from the San Juan Islands. Salt Spring Tourism calls it “A place of refuge, restoration, adventure, and creativity.” It’s also being referred to as “an argument surrounded by water.” That last statement may be due to its diverse and eclectic population.
It may be in Canada, but Salt Spring Island (SSI) has a very different climate from much of the rest of the country, or even the province. SSI is at the same latitude as Paris and has a mild winter, beautiful spring and fall, and usually a long warm summer. Although it also rains a lot in winter, we don’t often get much snow for a long time. And summers can be way too hot and dry. We have palm trees, grape and kiwi vines .
How do you get to Salt Spring? Well, the floatplane is one option and a fun adventure. It’s a short flight from downtown Vancouver or the airport. But luggage is limited and it’s costly. The other option is a ferry! Be sure to check the BC Ferries website carefully as you plan. Especially in summer, ferries book up long in advance if you come by car. On some long weekends even foot passengers need a reservation. It’s more than a hundred dollars one way to come here by car from Tsawwassen (near Vancouver). However, the website does not clearly explain that some Salt Spring runs have a special rate. There’s a tru-fare from Tsawwassen to Salt Spring. The Long Harbour ferry back to the mainland is cheaper than the way out here. And if you return via Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island, you can get a special through fare which is much cheaper than a direct fare.
If you decide to leave your car home, there is a bus that meets most ferries but do check the website. It’s nice not to have to find a parking space if you just come for the market. But it’s also harder to get to outlying places like parks.
There is also an option now of a Hop On Hop Off bus. For 55.- per person per day it will take you to wineries, the cheese factory and many other stops where the regular ‘city’ bus does not go. Bringing a bicycle is another option but, personally, I would not want to ride the narrow, winding and hilly roads on the island. There is a car rental place as well as scooters but the traffic on this island is tricky.
Where to stay? There are limited accommodations on the island so be sure to check the accommodations websites and book well in advance. There are a few small hotels, many regular B & B’s and also AirBnB’s. Be sure to read reviews as they all differ!
The island is popular for its nature as well as its man-made services. A plethora of artists lives here, including weavers, potters, painters, sculptures, carving and writers. Many of these artists have studios that are open to the public. There’s a good Studio Tour map you can use, as well as a website (see below) with hours and addresses for each one. Start your island exploring with a stop at the Tourist Info Centre in Ganges and they’ll give you all the maps and info you need!
Salt Spring has three ferry terminals and ‘villages’. One ferry comes from Crofton on Vancouver Island to Vesuvius, a small neighborhood with a coffeeshop and a restaurant. The Long Harbour ferry terminal is on the east side of the island and has a direct ferry to the mainland, but no other services. And then there’s Fulford in the south, with a ferry terminal to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island, a fun grocery store and a wonderful coffeeshop and restaurant. Plus some funky clothing and art shops. Ganges, which does not have a ferry terminal, is the main town with all the shops, supermarkets, hardware store, liquor stores, art centres and more.
We may be a small island, but there are many restaurants as well as food trucks. These range from sea food to Mexican, from vegan to pizza and everything in between. None of them are cheap but many are wonderful. I don’t have any favourites but the live music at The Tree House in summer is an event not to be missed. Arigato or Sushi 2 Go make wonderful inexpensive sushi. We love the patio at the Seaside Restaurant and a glass of sangria at The Salt Spring Inn is a favourite treat of mine, as is a dark hot chocolate at Harlans’ Chocolate. Elsewhere in the province, and even across Canada, Salt Spring is famous for Salt Spring Coffee, Salt Spring Cheese, its wines, beer and other foods.
We also have several wineries, cideries, breweries and even a distillery. There are many farm stands offering anything from flowers and eggs, to baking and crafts. They all rely on the honour system and we trust that everyone is honest so this age old system can stay in place on our island.
There are many events that are popular beyond the borders of the island. On summer Saturdays we are inundated by visitors who come for the very popular Saturday Market in Ganges. It’s a wonderful place to stroll, to see beautiful crafts, to listen to musicians, to sit in the sun along the harbour and enjoy an ice cream cone. I always enjoy the regular Summer in the Park concerts in Ganges when a wide variety of music groups performs and people dance barefoot in the grass. Another wonderful music event is the free/by donation concert each Wednesday held at the Anglican Church. Makes for a lovely, relaxing break on a busy day.
If town is too crowded for you, try a hike! We have several provincial parks: Ruckle in the south is gorgeous along the water, with a campground and many hiking trails. You can spot whales and ferries coming by. Mount Maxwell offers amazing views once you get up the rough road. Mount Erskine is great hiking and also has breathtaking views that make it worth the climb. And Burgoyne Bay has nice trails, a marina and First Nations welcome poles on the water. Our local government (CRD) has many diverse hiking trails. Pick up their free trail guide or check out trails online (link below).
Besides fabulous bookstores we also have a great public library with wifi and comfy chairs. Stop in to see the art by local artists and changing displays. And don’t forget the free Museum which give a wonderful overview of the colourful history of this little island. There’s a Yoga Centre. ArtSpring and ArtStart have shows and displays, concerts and classes. There are also more than 30 Little Libraries on the island. The interactive map is in the list of Resources below.
If you come in September, my favourite event is the Fall Fair. This is an old fashioned, straight from the pages of a kids’ book, Fall Fair. Local ladies bake and sell pies. Everyone displays their best vegetables or chickens, crafts or bakings. There are building after building of quilts and flower arrangements to view. Pigs are polished, cows are shampooed - all for the Fall Fair. You can eat lamb burgers, watch sheep dog demonstrations, zucchini races (yes!) and listen to fabulous, famous, local musicians like Valdi, Raffy and Randy Bachman.
In November one of my favourite events happens here. Salt Spring Literacy holds an annual gigantic used book and jewelry sale called Books & Bling. It happens at the Farmers’ Institute and thousands of books are sold for 50 cents and up. A wonderful event for booklovers!
Then there are the Ruckle Farm days, Race Around Salt Spring sailing, a film festival, Apple Fest and more. Free activities include a disc golf park, geocaching, library events, hiking, swimming, Library Story Walks, and plenty of other family friendly events.
What else? The beaches! You can swim at St Mary’s Lake but the beach at Vesuvius is more fun. From Price or Beddis Beach you can see, or boat, to Chocolate Beach. In August, the phosphorescence is magical if you swim at night at Vesuvius or Churchill Beach. And so is the view of the Milky Way on a warm summer night without the light pollution of a big city.
So, we do traipse off to far flung places. But coming home to Salt Spring Island is the best! Come see for yourself!
RESOURCES:
Summer Concerts in the Park, 2024
Island Pathways has issues great maps: Salt Spring Island on Foot
and Salt Spring Island Bike Map. For sale at Salt Spring Books.
Click here for a wonderful little VIDEO about the island!
BOOKS:
Salt Spring, The Story of an Island by Charles Kahn
Mod ’n Lavender, Salt Spring in the ’60’s by John Grain
Hiking the Gulf Island by Charles Kahn
Salt Spring Memento by Michael Levy
Planet Salt Spring by Arthur Black (CD Audio)
Fairy Doors of Salt Spring Island by Roger Brunt