Florence, Firenze… What a history - of hardworking peasants, feuding families, marauding armies, of popes and painters…
We flew to Italy from Vancouver, via Seattle and Amsterdam, directly to Florence, avoiding the busyness of Rome. We had decided not to drive in Italy because of its fame for crazy drivers but also because we’ve experienced the narrow alleys of old cities.
Florence’s airport is small. Right outside the terminal is the platform for the new T2 tramway into the city. For 1.50 euros you end up downtown in 20 minutes, on a ticket that is valid for 90 minutes so you can even explore more. You buy the ticket on the platform and don’t forget to validate it in the stamp machine inside the tram. A great and easy way to reach the city centre.
I got off the tram and walked less than 10 minute to the hostel we’d booked: Leonardo House turns out to be located in the very heart of the city but on a tiny old street with almost no traffic. These narrow city centers are too tight even for most small Italian cars.
Some statues keep it all under wraps…
The hostel is very quiet and comfortable, the room is spartan but we don’t need more than a large room, a kingsize bed and our own bathroom. The staff is extremely nice and helpful. No breakfast included so we walk around the corner for coffee and croissants. There are ATM’s and lots of eateries nearby. A supermarket, near the train station, is harder to find.
And then there’s David by Michelangelo.
Some of my very favourite books were written by Ross King and take place in Florence. All based on facts, they bring the history to life. I feel so fortunate to walk the same streets as Michelangelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, the infamous d’Medici family and many more.
We explore the city on foot, getting over our jetlag and getting used to hearing, and trying to speak, Italian. Of course we visit all of the famous landmarks. The Santa Maria Novella church is right around the corner on a nice square with pricey eateries. The Duomo, the most important monument, is packed with hordes of tourists but also open for actual services. The Bell Tower next to it is an impressive piece of gothic architecture.
We really do want to see the interior of the cathedral, which is among the largest of the world. But we do not want to traipse through it amongst thousands of tourists. So we make the choice to attend a service. Mass is too long and probably just as crowded. So we chose 5 PM vespers on a Sunday. With only a handful of people we relax in a quiet part of the impressive church. The Gregorian chanting is like a massage for the mind, almost putting us to sleep. What a fabulous way to see the church and to give thanks for this amazing trip.
Several times we cross the Ponte Vecchio, an ancient bridge clustered with merchants’ stalls. The medieval looking stalls themselves, built from dark wood and cast iron hinges, are more impressive than the souvenirs they hold. I love the serene views of the mirroring water of the river Arno as it meanders through Florence. Go early in the morning to avoid crowds, or enjoy the lights of an evening stroll across the bridge.
A buchette del vino from the 1600’s.
The Church of Santa Croce is also an impressive building. Its square especially pleasant when a man with a violin plays wonderful classical pieces. We sit on a bench and soak up the atmosphere. At night we eat a toasted ham and mozzarella sandwich before heading into San Stefano for a Vivaldi, Mozart and Pachabel concert. It’s beautiful in this ancient setting. Although going to a soothing concert right after arriving from a very different time zone might not be a good idea: we keep drifting off to sleep…
The golden doors of the Baptistery
Early on Sunday morning we climb the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo. It’s 500 years since his death but his legacy lives on in his hometown. The hill is a steep climb with stone stairs part of the way. We pass under the ancient city walls. A replica of David looks out over the city and we follow his gaze over the Duomo and palazzos. Nearby is the Palazzo de Medici. We also walk by the house where Michelangelo actually lived. The ancient walls and cobblestone streets make it easy to believe that he roamed these very streets. So many famous people lived in this city, names I had to learn in history class: de Medici family, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Dante, Donatello, Botticelli, Amerigo Vespucci, the famous explorer, as well as Florence Nightingale was born here…And, amazingly her cousin is buried not 5 minutes from my house on Salt Spring Island!
Our favourite BOOKS about Italy.
Transit: http://en.comune.fi.it/administration/tramway/line2.html
Our hostel in Florence: https://leonardohouse.weebly.com
Read here about Italy’s wine windows: https://www.outlookindia.com/outlooktraveller/explore/story/70763/italys-16th-century-wine-windows-reopen