One of my favourite ways to get around, is to have a detailed map, get in the car and find tiny little backroads to get from A to Z. Preferably without even knowing where Z is, exactly.

In Europe, everything is, relatively, close by. Distances are much shorter than in North America although there are many more traffic lights. So it’s fun to avoid the main highways, often clogged with traffic, and find your way along back roads.

To get from The Netherlands to Belgium, where I was to speak in the International School in Brussels, we did just that. We followed the actual paper map’s tiny white backroads, slightly larger yellow roads if we had no other choice. But no red or orange highways.

This way we drive through farm fields, watch cows lazily chewing while they must wonder where we are going. We pass villages in the blink of an eye. Not because we were speeding but because they consisted of a church and two houses. Often we thought we’d have coffee in a village but there wasn’t even a cafe, at least not one that was open when we passed through. We follow roads through forests.

The school in Brussels had booked us into a wonderful, old hotel on the edge of a huge city park. After school, I was able to walk back to the hotel through the woods – beautiful oak forest with autumn leaves just starting to turn.

While I was working, Kees learned how to use the mêtro, explored the Grand Marché of Brussels and visited Manneke Pis - the famous little fountain statue of a peeing boy. At night we had pizza (there seem to be more Italian eateries in Europe than anything else…) or the best Belgium fries anywhere in a converted city tram. (see: Le Tram http://www.letramdeboitsfort.be)

We polished up our high school French in Belgium. I was pleased that we were able to ask for everything we needed, and understand the answers (!) in French.

After 4 days in Belgium, we, once again, took our map and avoided all highways to explore more of this laid-back rural country.

We had a wonderful time crisscrossing tiny villages in d’Ardennes. Found a lovely B & B (http://www.lacascatelle.com) La Caccatelle in Leglise.

From here we drove through beautiful forests and explored the Abbey d’Orval. ( http://www.orval.be). We didn’t stay overnight in this silent monastery here, but you can. Or you can sit on a patio and sip beer brewed by the monks. We roamed the 11th century ruins before taking a 7 KM hike through the woods.

One thing I love about traveling on our own, without having everything planned ahead of time, is the discoveries we make along the way.

Although heading south into Belgium and towards Luxembourg, and my next school, we discovered that it was better to have a reservation, and thus a destination, rather than simply hoping to find a hotel or B & B by passing one along the road. We made too many stops being told that everything was full, and finally had to settle for a more expensive hotel room than we had planned.

Even though it is the shoulder season, and not too busy with tourists anymore, many villages seem to have festivals and celebrations, especially on weekends.

So I searched online (I mostly use orbitz.com to make bookings) and discovered a gorgeous castle in a tiny village in the area we wanted to visit in the Ardennes. The castle looked like a fancy hotel on the website but the cost was half of what we would have expected. It fitted our budget so I booked a room.

Chateau Harze - our little abode for the night…

When we arrived, we were most impressed with the huge, gray stone castle, complete with turrets and surrounded by a wall with a gate. I had expected snooty waiters and a regular hotel lobby. Instead, there was a small reception desk with a very friendly gentleman. Our room was large with high ceilings. A kingsize bed with memory foam, a nice bathroom. We have a fridge and a coffee maker in our room – more than we had in many other hotels on this trip. And a view onto the castle garden and fountain. It is dead quiet.

Breakfast is included in the cute restaurant in what seems to be the old wine cellar. We discovered that, rather than being part of a hotel chain, this castle is owned by the county. That’s why the rates are low and the pride of the locals in their heritage is preserved and shared with visitors.

When you sleep between the thick stone walls of a castle, you are surrounded by history. The original building dates back to about 1200, with the main building as it is now arising around the 1600’s. I love the history sheet we were given in “English” – referring to a colonel who lived here in 1647 – and I quote: “Its armorial bearings were twinned with those of his wife.”

During World War II the castle was the headquarters of the US 18th Airborne Corps during the Battle of the Bulge. A sign states that General Eisenhower was here.

Belgian history includes Roman ruins and medieval castles.

We very much enjoyed staying here and I highly recommend Chateau Harzé if you visit this area: http://www.chateau-harze.be

From Harzé it is a 25 minutes drive, among lovely rolling hills and picturesque villages, to the city of Spa.

Spa.

The word is now recognized worldwide as a synonym for health. My dictionary defines the noun ‘spa’ as ‘mineral water’ or ‘resort with water for bathing’.

So, if you are this close to the REAL, the original Spa, I decided we better visit. I also happen to love spa’s in the broadest sense.

Spa, Belgium has apparently been known for its healing waters since Roman times. Since Medieval times its waters have been used to cure illnesses.

In Spa, you can stay in the Radisson Hotel which has a vernicular (tram) to the resort. We, however, preferred ‘our’ castle in Harzé and drove to Spa this morning.

You can buy a day pass or a 3 hour pass. We figured that 3 hours of soaking would be plenty. They have a smart system: when you pay your admission they give you a small plastic chip. It opens the turn style to go into the change rooms. It also opens a locker for your stuff, and fits into a wristband that you then wear into the pool. When you want to eat or drink something, you “charge” it to the chip in your wrist band. Once you are ready to leave, you pay the balance and ‘voila’ – the chip opens the exit for you.

The pool consists of an enormous glass dome over a huge pool of wonderful warm water. Just the perfect temperature. You can float and swim. There are edges with massaging water nozzles. There are flumes and spouts and bubble seats, even bubble beds on which you can relax. You can swim outside, through a strong jetted river. We’ve seldom been so clean. And so relaxed.

The only problem? I’m now spoiled for life by visiting the grandest ‘spa’ of them all.

http://www.thermesdespa.com
Combine spa’s and castles with Belgium chocolate, fries and waffles and Belgium is a must visit!